D 5505 Oil cooler hose material and size?

[evranch_canada]

Hi D05 owners,

The flexible supply hose on my D5505 spiral oil cooler has a slow leak. I would like to replace it, but this part is not available.

Due to availability issues with metric pipe fittings of all sorts here, I was considering just slicing the hose to remove it from the fittings, and replacing it with a new piece of hose using bolted hose clamps.

The factory hose is covered in stainless braid. Is there any need for a special hose due to temperature or other concerns, or would an ordinary 1-wire hydraulic hose be appropriate?

Also, does anyone know what internal diameter of hose is used here? Unfortunately, I will likely have to use imperial size hose due to availability, i.e. 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2", and as I still have to drive several hours to buy any hose, knowing the replacement size before I cut it off would be a good thing.

Thanks,
Alex

 

[evranch_canada]

Understandable not to get a reply on this one since most people are not in my situation, so here's what I did in case it can help anyone else:

Decided that even though the heads can run very hot compared to a "normal" engine, the oil can't be particularly hot or it would break down. So hydraulic hose must be fine. I almost just brazed stainless steel, but was concerned about vibration and the aluminum... Flex hose must be there for a reason, right?

Cut the bands and pulled off the failed hose. Found the barbs are slightly larger than the ID of 1/2" hydraulic hose.

Reamed 1/2" hydraulic hose slightly oversize with conical reamer so it could be installed, banded it with a tool that makes clamps from stainless wire. Not strong enough for hydraulics, but much better than gear clamps. I use these on a lot of automotive and tractor hoses.



Made the hose about 10mm longer, because the factory length makes it very hard to get the wrenches on the fitting to install it. Any longer than this though, and it would hit the head while threading it into the block at the bottom.



After this hose had been spraying oil into the air chamber for many years for the previous owner, you can imagine how many hours of cleaning this photo represents.


You can see I didn't have any rubber mounts at my shop. Are they really as long as these machine screws, or is the coil supposed to be stretched out more than this?

Well that's a small look at what it's like to work on Deutz in Canada! I'm glad I have a lathe to make and modify fittings, as many metric parts are simply unavailable here. We don't even know their names. Luckily, I didn't need to do anything special for this one.

Alex

 

[evranch_canada]

As a side note I find it odd that the full oil flow goes through this cooler, with no thermostat of any sort. It seems these tractors were designed for summer use in the field, as this will result in ice cold oil when doing low HP work in the winter like moving hay bales.

And trying to warm it up by idling, when you are blasting -20C air past the oil before returning it to the block... clearly only the heads will warm up, and the rest of the block will stay icy cold!

I'm thinking maybe a bypass valve would be a good idea, considering I could now add a standard tee to that hydraulic hose.

 

[Kai6.05]

Hi Alex,

yes the rubber dampers are as long as your machine screws right now.

You cannot warm up a tractor just by ideling. That would only work, if you disconnect the belt from the fan. Just slowly start working with the tractor it's better for the environment and for your tractor, since small work always means higher rpm and oil pressure in comparision to idling.

Greetings from Germany,
Kai
By the way: A few months ago I had to change the Hose at my D40.1S: Niederdruckschlauch | Kraftstoffschlauch - individuell konfigurieren

 

[evranch_canada]

Hi Kai,

That is definitely an issue with the air cooled motors in this climate. On a non-winter day I would do as you say, start up, allow the exhaust to burn clean and then start driving to the field or to hook up implements.

But in winter when it's really cold we change the strategy, normally we will idle a liquid cooled tractor for up to 10 minutes if it was not plugged in with an electric block heater. We also give turbochargers a couple minutes of low speed idle to reach temperature equilibrium before spooling them up, though this tractor doesn't have one.

Once it gets below -20C often hydraulic fluid is so thick it will cavitate in the pump if you try to rev it up or build pressure, many machines here come with warning labels not to try to move anything before 5-10 minutes of idling to warm up hydraulics and transmission oil. At least below -30C I don't move any equipment unless it's an emergency. Including myself!

I don't use my DX160 below freezing, in fact it doesn't like to start without being fed ether which I don't like to do, but I did take the D5505 out to move some bales on hilly terrain at -10C to see how it performed. Found it interesting that when coasting down a long hill in gear, the injection pump is shut off but the fan obviously is not, blasting the heads with frigid air. Upon hitting the bottom of the hill and starting to inject fuel, the exhaust pours out white smoke for a few seconds as the heads are so cold.

Made me wonder if anyone has swapped in a modern variable speed electric fan for the belt driven fan. Obviously you would need a bigger alternator to run it, but it could have real benefits in controlling engine temperature. Or maybe the simpler option of a movable shutter to limit airflow?

That is nice to be able to just order the hose online for only 22 Euros! Looking at the specs though, I definitely could not have identified those ends as I'm completely unfamiliar with them. At my suppliers, straight thread would be ORB, and flare would be SAE or JIC flare.

 

[Deutz45nullfuenf]

Hi Alex,

i agree that the ambient conditions in Alberta are totally different from ours here in germany.
But normally, the Deutz engines do start quite well at cold temperatures (they were really advertising that with a cold start in ice)

Some years ago while exexuting a biogas upgrading project in London, Ontario i searched for flexible hoses with CRN number and found:

http://www.thorburnflex.com/pdf/HYDRAULIC HOSE.pdf

It seems that they also can do metric connections to hoses (but you have to know what you need...)

Unfortunately, our promising projects in Alberta (Edmonton and Lethbridge) did never start,

 

[evranch_canada]

I love to see these old time videos, Harm! They have a charm that today's glossy advertising is missing. The tractors with 812 engines actually did have a good reputation for winter starting here, with indirect combustion and glow plugs, though people worried about cold oil flow so most had oil pan heaters installed.

The 912 on the other hand, had a reputation for being surrounded by empty ether cans! The flame plug just didn't have what it takes for very cold days, as well as requiring very long preheat times and being prone to failure. A hairdryer down the intake was also a popular way to get DX series running in the cold. Even after fixing the flame plug system up to factory specs, my DX160 will make more smoke than fire below 0C. It usually finds its way to a parking spot in late fall and then doesn't move unless I'm pulling it into the shop for service. But in spring when the weather warms up, it will start as soon as the key is turned.